Portugal travel guide

It would be hard not to, when most days you’ll wake up to sunshine, bathed in the special light that defines Portugal. Its warm rays bounce off the cities’ tiled façades, dapple the mellow limestone cliffs framing the Atlantic Ocean, and cast chiaroscuro on the walls of whitewashed historical towns. Within these sun-drenched spaces are genuinely hospitable people, proud to share their country and practise their English, which is generally spoken to a high standard. Families can relax, as children are loved rather than tolerated, welcomed into restaurants and showered with attention and sweets. Even in the summer high season motorways tend to be pretty empty, making it easy to explore a variety of regions, each of which has its own unique character.
Green and granite northern Portugal is famous for its port wine, grown in the spectacular Douro Valley. In the centre of the country Unesco world heritage sites abound — the monastery of Alcobaça, the riverfront city of Coimbra and the historic small towns of Tomar and Sintra are not to be missed. To the east, closer to Spain, you can enjoy wide sweeps of landscape, where storks nest in the chimney tops and fortified, medieval hilltop villages punctuate the skyline. In the Algarve, sandy islands and golden coves await. You will find restaurants serving recipes that have been passed down through generations wherever you go in Portugal — savour them along with delicious local wines. Away from the mainland, Portugal’s islands are worth the trek. Largely touted as Europe’s answer to the Galapagos Islands, the Azores have natural beauty in abundance, from volcanic craters to dolphins swimming through the Atlantic surf. Madeira is also on the up and its smaller size and sunny climate make it a hot contender for half-term holidays.
Main photo: Pena Palace, Portugal (Alamy)
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Everything is possible in Portugal, whether you’re in search of an active break or a more relaxed holiday. Let your interests inform your choice of destination — golfers should head to the Algarve for the greatest choice of courses, whereas surfers will relish the west coast: above Lisbon in Peniche or Ericeira. Its favourable weather and terrain make Portugal a popular choice for walking holidays — self-guided or group tours — and many routes cross through pristine national parks. Rich in avian life, the country is loved by birdwatchers too — especially the southern wetlands and the mountains of northern Portugal. The Algarve is an enormously varied region, the western coast is wild and windy whereas the unspoilt southern coast has a warmer sea and more gentle tide, making it ideal for family holidays with small children. It also has an excellent range of small B&Bs and hotels, especially when compared to the somewhat concrete-covered centre. Throughout Portugal, wine is a big draw, so consider planning your trip around visiting wineries, taking in the regions of Alentejo, Dão and the Douro, ending in Porto for a glass of its eponymous fortified wine.
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In the past ten years the hotel scene has exploded in Portugal. The economic recession of 2008 resulted in many landowners converting their farmhouses or manor houses into hotels, with local architects producing a swathe of interesting projects — often small, but perfectly formed.
Now you can stay in a treehouse in the leafy north, glamp in chic seaside Comporta, bed down in a converted monastery or convent, or even in a giant port wine barrel in the Douro Valley. Families may prefer to base themselves in a hotel with a swimming pool — always endlessly entertaining to children — although it’s worth bearing in mind that most pools in Portugal are not heated. It’s not an issue in the summer months, but if you’re staying in the shoulder seasons it’s worth checking before you book. Cities such as Lisbon, Porto and beyond are brimming with Airbnbs and apartments so you can “live like a local”, but the right hotel can also offer an inside track. The best will have a well-informed concierge, who’ll be only too happy to direct you to the hottest little restaurant in town. For a (no so) little slice of privacy, Portugal has plenty of luxury villas, particularly in the south.
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Where to start? Walk on the sands as the sun rises; have lunch at a beach restaurant to a soundtrack of crashing waves, eating fresh fish drizzled with local olive oil and paired with a chilled white wine; and stop for coffee in a café in the square of a small town, joining flat-capped locals as they watch the world go by. Take to the seas or spot dolphins from the shoreline. Dip into a local food market, buying huge juicy tomatoes that taste better than anything and perhaps some scarlet prawns, a delicacy of the Algarve. Walk through the oldest part of Lisbon, Alfama, at night when strains of song — the soulful and melancholic fado — seep from behind closed doors. Sail down the Douro River, pulling in at wineries for tastings. Most of all, don’t miss the opportunity to immerse yourself — get lost, discover local restaurants and try new tastes, from goose barnacles in the Algarve to pork cheeks in the Alentejo. Wherever you go, eat pasteis de nata: Portugal’s beloved custard tart.
For sun without the crowds target the shoulder months of May and September. However, the Atlantic Ocean is warmest in the summer months.
What should I know before travelling to PortugalCash is still king, with many small shops and restaurants not set up for credit or debit cards. Make sure you bring enough euros, to avoid charges at ATMs. Also, note that the sun can be seriously hot in high summer — avoid exposure at midday, and be vigilant about applying a high-factor sun cream.
Is Portugal expensive?Portugal still offers good value for money, especially if you’re buying local wines and food in shops and markets. Medicines, however, are expensive — be sure to bring anything you might need. In Lisbon taxis or Ubers are cheap, but in the Algarve even a 20-minute cab journey can be extortionately priced. Services, such as babysitting or cleaning, tend to be a bit of a bargain.
How long is the flight to Portugal?Flight times naturally vary depending on your departure and destination airport, but from the UK the average is 2 hours and 35 minutes.
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